Paris Thursday 28 May

This was the first day we had a chance to have a sleep in. Henri de Willy came to the camp site to say hello and then some of the guys went off to the French Military Vehicle workshop somewhere near Versailles. It was lovely to see Henri again after 2 years, the last time he was at Corowa and he made a watercolour sketch of the Ute we are currently driving. Hans and Rene were going to try their luck for tickets to the tennis and Graham and Mick went to the workshop.

Well what a day - we walked, rode on trains and buses all around in the centre of Paris, looked at history and very old buildings. Fiona’s explanation will follow. John enjoyed it but is keen to sit in the ute and take a load off his feet tomorrow as we have 280 km to drive to Mont St Michel in Normandy.

OK – we finally left camp around noon and by bus and train went to Montmartre on the way to Sacre Coeur. Came out of the Metro and got a little confused and started down some streets that were very sleazy and on either side of us were hawkers, standing side by side all the way. Finally went the right way and up to the church, declined to walk up and took the funicular tramway. It was a shame that the day was so overcast and misty rain, otherwise the photos would have been fantastic.



From there we went back to the Ile de la Cite and went to the Conciergerie where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned prior to her beheading. Paddy featured again in the Hall where the main banqueting took place.

Then to Notre Dame de Paris, because Paddy needed redeeming from his time in prison. It is an awesome sight but the queue to climb up to the ramparts was too long, so we only went inside. No sightings of Quasimodo or the gargoyles this time around unfortunately.




We went over in front of the Hotel de Ville and there were Hans and Rene. They had missed out on tickets to the tennis so made their way into town and were watching on the big screen in town.



And there was some very creative parking happening here



Further on was the Louvre precincts, the Jardin de Tuilleries, Pont Alexandre III and finally back to the Champs Elysees and headed back to camp. A very full 7 hours but it was wonderful to see Paris again.

Wednesday 27 Verdun to Paris 187 km

Due to the change in the weather yesterday it was much cooler today, this made it easier on the vehicles for our 190 miles (6.5 hours including stops) drive to Paris and our camp site. It took longer than first thought because of the French Open tennis being held at Roland Garros near the camp site with lots of extra traffic and road blocks. Generally it was a good drive doing 45 mph on freeway and secondary roads, until Paris.

But to the farming side of things, from the time we left Verdun until the outskirts of Paris all we saw was what can only be said to be more fertile land with larger scale cropping every where, as far as the eye can see. Not one animal or fence to be seen, just thousand upon thousands of acres of the best crops you can imagine, from broad beans, potatoes, cereals crops of all types. The landscape is fairly flat with the only land not farmed are tree belts, roads etc.

In the evening we took a bus into the centre of Paris and walked down Avenue Charles de Gaulle towards the Arc de Triomphe. When we got there, we went into the tunnel to go underneath for photos, only to be turned away by the Police and Gendarmes because it was closed for a ceremony. Back outside and got onto the footpath at the top of the Champs Elysees. There was the cause of the closure. A group of veterans and people from Dunkirk were preparing a parade to honour the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier under the Arc and Dunkirk’s participation in WWII. The Army and Band and dignitaries were all taking part. The Police closed off part of the roadway around the Arc and away they went. Then it was on to the Trocadero and a look at the Eiffel Tower, then dinner in St Germaine des Pres. As the sun does not set until about 2130 hours it left us plenty time for a walk around town before heading back to camp.

Tuesday 26 May Verdun

Today was spent driving around, doing 50 miles looking at WW1 battle fields @ memorials. First up we looked inside the Citadelle Souterraine. Then we looked at a totally destroyed village of Fleury where nothing remains except the bomb craters. A large area around Verdun was left as it remained after the battles were over, as a reminder of the war. Later we looked at the French Memorial that has thousands of names of unknown solders on its wall and their remains buried underneath that can be seen through glass walls. In the cemetery are the graves of 15,000 soldiers. This battle between the Germans and French had the largest loss of live then any other battle in history, around 400,000 on both sides.





At 1730 it started to rain so we headed to camp via some shopping. A good evening meal was had at our camp before we retired for the evening.

Where are our followers and lookers?

Hi everyone

I thought we may have got a few comments by now. Hope you are all enjoying our trip.

Fiona

Verdun, France Monday 25 May

I've now loaded a missing picture looking at the descent from the Simplon Pass.



Today we drove through more farming country. Now that we are well into France it has changed to broad acre cropping country, more like at home. The paddocks are about 40 to 100 acres of wheat, triticaly & canolla mainly. Much more hay is made also, mainly of pasture & crops with larger equipment, as we are used to.

As like yesterday the temperature was in the 30 plus degrees. The ute is still running like a dream, thanks again to the effort put in by Steve & Max.

This area saw the biggest ever military battle in history and during WW1 between the French and the Germans and there are many sites to see tomorrow.

I have finally been able to power up the computer from last night’s shut down and it is 2245 hrs French time. The only area to get Internet access is adjacent to the reception area of this camp ground and they have just turned out all the lights, so I am working with torch light and the light from the screen. We are again 200m from any WC and shower. As John mentioned earlier, the temp on arrival was very high and there was no breeze to speak of. The pool was very inviting just before cooking dinner.

Paddy and Bluey had a quiet day today. I forgot to get them out when we visited the Basilica dedicated to St Joan of Arc just past Neufchateau. We missed going into the village to see her birth home unfortunately, but the Basilica was awesome.





Of course, there will be more to follow tomorrow.

Mulhouse, France, 24 May 2009

What an incredible couple days. Yesterday we were all ready up to leave camp at Lake Maggiore at 7300 and the electronic barriers at 0730, waiting to be released. They locked the outer gates at 2200 and if you were outside, you couldn’t get your vehicle back in.

Champing at the bit to get to Switzerland and the long awaited Simplon Pass journey. Finally got away and made our way to the commencement of the ‘climb’. As we got over the border from Italy to Switzerland, the scenery changed immediately. Gorgeous mountains covered with snow, glaciers just beside the road and snow drifts, rustic farm houses and meadow upon meadow of lush grass. John was drooling at the sight of the methods of mowing and immediate silage collection of the fresh grass being taken to the cow barns. The cows had the traditional bells hanging around their necks and it got to the point that my eyes were hurting from the beautiful scenery. Each bend revealed a new vista and photo opportunity. Very quickly, we were at 2005m above sea level and at the summit of the Simplon Pass with little effort, not as expected. Napoleon’s Eagle carved out of stone was there because this was vital to his campaign to capture Italy we believe.

Paddy has now successfully completed his SES Alpine Rescue course and even assisted Bluey along the way.





On to Oberwald and took the car train to Realp under the Furka Pass. The peak of the mountain was 2200m above sea level but we were at 1500m below that. The trip took 20 minutes and we travelled at 80-90km/hr, the fastest the jeeps and our ute have travelled ever. I was filming our departure and when we came off the train, we thought it was our friend Swiss Chris with his Akubra with camera to his face. The camera was lowered and there was Ben Gruber, Neil and Brenda’s son from Yass and a relative of ours. He is conducting research at Stuttgart University. A completely unexpected and pleasant surprise for us to see somebody from our own, Chris was out of sight but soon appeared.

Travelled onward to Devil’s Bridge, the site of a battle between the Russians and French in 1799. Just so much to see to talk about now.

That night we got the very rustic camp above Lake Seeli at the southern end of Lake Luzern. We couldn’t stay in the intended camp because they wanted us to take the vehicles down, unload and leave them unattended above on the road. As nearly all of us sleep in the vehicles, it was not at all convenient. Camp was relocated.

Dinner and tour of Luzern followed courtesy of Chris and Ben. It was a most beautiful Old City.

Today we went to Safenwil where Chris’ parents Marlena and Peter and brother Pascal live, again through some of the very fertile farming land and on hilly country. See PHOTO. A delightful BBQ, the best meal we have had during the whole trip. It was a very great pleasure to meet them as they made us very welcome and feel at home. Many hours later, we had to reluctantly farewell them and made our way to Mulhouse in France.



It took us an hour and a half of frustration to find the camp site for the night once we arrived in town to a very welcome beer and shower.

Tomorrow we head to Verdun for a couple of nights and then gay Paree!!!!!

Bon soir mon amis.
John says good bye for now

Lake Maggiore, 22 May 2009

A relatively short drive of 110 miles yesterday of flat easy freeway going, the most trucks we’ve seen so far on the roads from Turin to Lake Maggiore. The scenery was quite different again as we drove through rice fields under flooded irrigation and also their haymaking season is well underway. We noted that the paddocks are still quite small, on paddock produced only 3 round bales while others had up to around 25 of bales and silage.

Dinner was ‘at home’ last night.


We went for a drive this morning. Parts of Europe had a public holiday yesterday and are making a 4 day weekend of it. The place is humming with people and vehicles from Germany and other countries. From our humble abode last night, we could have been in much better, not that far up the road as you can see. The temperature is in the low 30s again today for the 4th day in a row.




Tomorrow we hit the Simplon Pass and the car train through the Furka Pass, a 20k tunnel. We hear there has been quite a dump of snow there, making driving impossible, hence the train.

Bienvenuto Ciao Ciao for now

Ancona to Turin

So where were we up to – Ah Ancona and another port so it must be Saturday 16 May. This time we had a welcoming committee with Herman Pfauter from Santa Barbara CA and Andrea Gatti, from the Italian Military Vehicle group. Herman had kindly booked us into a hotel for the night but it had been decided that we were off to a camping ground at Senigallia. Unfortunately on arrival the ground was still closed and we had to move onward and upward to Urbino. Lang and Bev were not to know it was not open. Forgive me if I am repeating myself.

The camping ground at Camping Pineta, Urbino left a little to be desired with a hike to the loos and very little in the way of amenities. Some of the women of the group have got the point of grading the camping grounds by the number of squats and sit loos, shower heads and their efficiency, together with their drainage ability and distance from them to where we can actually camp, laundry facilities and other basics. The first into camp does the reccie and reports to all others as they arrive.

Unfortunately at this one, we were told to camp wherever we wanted and just adjacent was a toilet block which was not open. Some enterprising folk started the water, fixed the leaking fittings and we were functioning. Not long after, the park manager came up and was angry because there had been a leakage further down the hill. It was only the next morning when we found the run off had leaked into the construction of the new swimming pool. Sorry about that. Anyway that was 1 squat and 1 sit for the women, showers reasonable.

It seems that Saturday afternoon in Italy is a no go zone for supermarkets so we had very few supplies. John had got used to ordering steak, eggs and chips in a few places and we had to forgo such luxuries that night. We delved into the trusty food supplies everyone had dutifully packed and not much used. A grand meal of Cup a Soup, followed by Baked Beans with Steak and Bacon, bread, Deb potato and some vino and beer. Then a drive to the gorgeous old city of Urbino. Had to park outside the city walls and walk in. It was an eye opener – a university based town and the birth place of Raffaello the artist.


A very rough shower next morning and on the road again via many mountainous roads some 1200 m above sea level and another 980 m. On the way we went into a village and there were many small racing cars preparing for a race, one set of drivers and handlers were fascinated with our ute as the boys were with their vehicle. PHOTO. Found two memorials to the Italian partisans executed or taken as prisoners by the Nazi from WWII high up in these mountains near Campagnia. Got down from there and went to Scarperia, north of Florence where the main group of the Italian Military Vehicle Collectors met us and we had a welcome and closed streets for us to display our vehicles.

After that we went back to San Piero a Sieve and stayed at Mugallo Verde Camping. Many sits, squats and laundry.

This morning we drove to the nearby station and went to Florence. While many of the women of the group seemed to have been there before, it seems that very few of the men had. I led my little tour group of John, Mick and Graeme. Although it had been 12 years since I was there last, my antenna worked immediately from the railway station my sister Elizabeth and I arrived, through to the Piazza della Republica and the Hotel Pendini, the Duomo and other magnificent places. John did not take the hint that on the Ponte Vecchio he was supposed to buy me a piece of “gold” jewellery, as in major gold. Darn!!!



Paddy did it again – there he was on the banks of Arno River and in the background was the Ponte Vecchio. Hopefully tomorrow he will be holding up the Leaning Tower of Pisa



Got back to the railway station in time for the return train, then managed to hear that the track the train was leaving from had been changed, raced to that and left. Major hiccup later when we didn’t recognise stations or tunnels and got out one stazione early. The local Municipale Polizia, John Marco at Vaglio was very helpful and put us onto a bus. Finally found our vehicles and on the road. One and a half hours later, for a distance of 15 km we found the road to Lucca and Pisa, via Campi.

That camping ground was nearly 5 star rated – The Torre Pedente at Pisa. About 800 metres to the old town and the tower. We were quite late trying to get over there in the evening, worrying about one vehicle which had failed to turn up at camp after San Piero a Sieve. By the time we walked out of the park the rest had gone ahead. Not knowing the exact direction to go, we headed back to camp where I was able to connect somewhat but didn’t finish this message. By that time it was 2330 and time for bed. We were due at the Tower at 0730 in the morning.

Tuesday, 19 May
We made it to the tower before all the tourists, the local junk tourist sellers, beggars and hawkers and managed to get our vehicles lined up on the road in front. Unfortunately, the sun was in the wrong position but we managed to snap away anyway. Paddy made it for the photo shoot but it is a bit difficult to see him or us for that matter.
PHOTOS

Left there about 0830 and headed to Albenga and Garlenda, on the western side of the bay from Genoa. Garlenda is the headquarters of the Fiat 500 Club and their museum and we were camped rough on grounds near a sporting field. A container with 4 loos to share with everyone and another container with cold showers way on the other side.

We were asked to line up and be prepared to move out to the Fiat Museum at 1830. Only a few smaller vehicles were taken up and believe it or not, we had the town brass band from Albenga leading us from the ground, up to the main street and all the way to the museum, marching tunes and all!! Vern, eat your heart out on the vehicle.
PHOTOS

The locals came out and waved and cheered us through. A big welcome at the museum and then over to the Tennis Club Restaurant for cocktails of guava juice, champagne and delicious hors d’oeuvres. That wasn’t the end of it though. Red and white wine on tables, antipasta of mortadella, prosciutto and ham with bread, followed by basil stratticiano pasta, then sliced steak, pommes noisette and ending with tiramisu and coffee, all for 20 euro. Bargain and a great time had by all. We were welcomed by the Deputy Mayor and many others.

Presentations were made for delivery to the Prime Minister’s of Australia and New Zealand from the Fiat 500 Club. I’m sure Kevin Rudd and John Keys will appreciate the offer.

Given it had been quite a hike from the camping area to the museum and it was then dark, decisions had to be made about getting home. Four piled into one jeep and two sat on the bonnet. Our wonderful driver, Jenny, couldn’t see around those on the front, so I was peering around on the right hand side. Laughed all the way back to camp and were still laughing when we got to bed. A wonderful evening in Garlenda and one to remember

It is now Wednesday and we have arrived in Turin. Finally back with some semblance of internet access, even if I have to sit at base camp and type this before going to somewhere where I can get reception.

Ancona to Scarperia

Hi again

No photos to add at this stage but Chitty Chitty Bang Bang has performed exceedingly well since her mechanical glitch at Pireaus. Pulled up and down hills of 1250m and 950m as a result of not so much getting lost, but wrong turns and fabulous scenery of the Italian mountains from Urbino to Scaperia, discovering on the way the Memorials to the Italian partisans defending their territory against the German Invaders.

Today we did 152 miles taking 8 hours due to the mountainous countryside covered. Had a warm welcome by the Italian Military Collectors at Scarperia and for once Lang and Bev's forethought and organisation realised itself, the previous bookings falling through because of the economic downturn and the fact that the season has not yet started in most places.

The Greek Breakdown.

Somebody had to have a somewhat serious breakdown, and to date it is us. It all started when we went to Agios Nikolaos from Iraklion some 60 km to look at what I’m assured is the second largest city on Crete. On our return to Iraklion the ute started to run rough, I thought it was fuel but soon realised that was not the case. As it was the day we were leaving Crete and catching the ferry back to Athens on the main land, I & others only had a quick look to see if we could fix it, but to no avail. It was organised that I got towed up onto the boat, as it was a steep ramp up if I could not do it under my own power as it turned out to be the case. A blitz did the job and I was set for the ferry ride.

When we unloaded at Athens at 0630, Mick & I started work on the old girl, it was not long before others started to join in and help. There was no spark on one cylinder and weak on others. Well that was when the fun started. We changed a distributor cap and in doing so mixed up the wires, which gave us endless grief from then on. After a lot of time and frustration that was resolved. The new cap did not fix the fault. We then decided to pull the distributor completely off and have a look at it, what we found was a surprise to us as one of the 2 rotor button points was bent and broken due to hitting the cap. It was a relief to find the fault, then set about replacing the distributor with a spare I had on board. To cut a long story short after then taking it back off to clean the points (as we forgot to before we fitted it) we got the old going better then ever and on the road again some several hours latter arriving at the camp for the night at midnight.



David Mottram in his Chev truck has a brocken main leaf on a rear spring that he has to still get repaired.
We have done 1700 miles so far averaging 14 mpg

Crete to Ancona

12 to 16 May
After a good night’s sleep in the motel at Sfakia we headed off for Iraklion following the coast north then across the mountains and a spectacular gorge before stopping at Spili. The scenery was very beautiful, very steep country with a lot of small area farming of grapes, olives there must have been thousands of areas of these small farming lots all mixed together.

All day John hardly used top gear stayed in 3rd doing around 25 to 30 mph due to the steep and windy roads, about 70 miles. By the end of the day John had had enough of driving slow and hard in 3rd gear.

Camped at Creta Camping beside the Cretaquarium and a swim in much warmer water. Then had a great cook up of soup, followed by Nasi Goreng and pork courtesy of Marielle and Hans Spranger.

On Wednesday, we ventured to Agios Nikolaos and wandered off the main road and found ourselves in the village of Hersonnissos where a neighbour from Yass had lived for a period. However, every time I took a picture, the vehicle bounced around and they were useless. Then another couple of tiny villages with very narrow streets requiring a lot of manoeuvring before we got out the other side and back onto the main road. We managed to scrape the side of a house once.

On the way back from Agios Nikolaos, the ute wasn’t performing at all well and is the subject of another posting by John.

Managed to get onto the ferry and to Pireaus. After that very trying day, we started travelling toward Patra and around 2000 hrs decided to try and find a camp ground on the way. Pulled in at Kiatro and had a lovely dinner and asked where the camp ground was. 10 minutes up the road became 10 km and then another 10 km when we kept on stopping to ask for directions. In the end we continued to Patra and the Rion Camping Ground, arriving at midnight. Next morning explored the Rion Fortress and are now on the ferry from Patra to Ancona in Italy. We are due to arrive there at 1230 after a 19 hour journey. More to follow.

Sorry all the photos are at the top but not much time to load and fix on time limits. Paddy is now at Knossos in Crete. There are the photos of Skafia and other things along the road.

Athens and Crete

We arrived in Athens on 7 May and the following day went to the Acropolis and Hadrian's Arch area. Paddy is certainly getting around too.




Caught a car ferry from Pireaus to Iraklion/Heraklion on the north coast which cost 340 euro return. A nightmare sleep overnight alternating between the aircraft style chair and the floor and docked around 0600 hrs. We then went to the area where the Allied's fought and defeated the Germans on the hills above, maintaining control of that airport and travelled via Rethimnon to Chania/Hania on the northern coast, west of Iraklion.



Yesterday we went to Maleme where the German War Cemetary is located and 4700 lay buried. Then onto the Souda Bay Commonwealth War Grave where the Australian, New Zealand and British troops are buried. Laid flowers on the grave of Alexander Duncan Kaiatia MacPhee, Fiona's grandfather's first cousin who was killed on 20 May 1941, the first day of the Battle of Crete.





It has been a really amazing experience to then see and travel alongside the gorge the troops trekked to get to this beach area.



We are now on the south coast of Crete in a hotel overlooking the beach where the British, Australian and New Zealanders evacuated the island bound for Egypt. It is called Chora/Hora Sfakia/Sfakion.



Absolutely glorious weather and great for a swim. The tan is coming along nicely thanks. A tough life but someone has to do it.

A local man named Yannis spoke to us this morning and he was 13 at the time of the evacuation which took several nights, given there were 32,000 Allied troops in the area waiting. Many villagers were executed for harbouring the Allied's and there is a small memorial to them up behind the village. To the left of the harbour is the memorial to the Allied's and the mayor arranged for all the flags to be erected and we had photos taken there. The convoy is attracting a lot of interest wherever we go, with the locals and tourists lining up to photograph the vehicles and learn why we are here. We are staying again tonight before heading back to Iraklion and Knossos and the ferry back to Pireaus. Must make sure we get a decent night's sleep for the return ferry.

John's message of 7 May 2009

Yesterday the 6th we drove through some amazing farming country again along the coast shadowed by hills. The soil appears to be very fertile growing cereal crops & market gardens.

The streets are still very narrow in every town we drive through & some defensive driving was required at times. We are travelling with the 2 jeeps of Mick & Graeme in one, Hans Spranger & his brother Jan in the other. Hans is in the lead jeep navigating us around sight seeing and from town to town. We diverted off the freeway and took a lesser road through again more farming country and hills, some covered in snow. Last night as we lay in bed you could hear the waves rolling up on the beach, that is how close we are at our camp. Unlike in Australia, they build very close to the shore.

Up at 0600 hrs to get ready for very long drive today around 370 km to Pireas near Athens where we catch the ferry to Crete tomorrow. Arrived at 1530 hrs having done 230 miles. It was about 25c today. Camp site is on a very noisy road.

John

Thassos to somewhere south of Volos, Greece 6 May 2009.

We left Thassos on Monday morning and travelled to Plaka which is south of Thessalonika. The camping ground was set on the beach and up behind us was Mt Olympus, nearly 3000m above sea level and the stop was covered in snow. An awesome sight.



Paddy went hiking up there, what an adventurous soul he is.



This was taken part way up the mountain side.

Several of the group braved the chilly water of the Aegean Sea and had a swim the day before last, I just dipped my toes in. We have had some amazing meals along the way and several jugs of wine. We feel sure there will be several more nights like it. One of the group turned 60 today and another member serenaded her with Happy Birthday on his saxophone at 6.30 this morning before we broke camp.

We have finally downloaded some other photos as promised.



This is the Lone Pine Cemetary at Gallipoli. Wreaths were still at the Remembrance Stone




Here are our vehicles gathered at ANZAC Cove North Beach and in the background is the commemorative area where the Dawn Service is conducted. The grassed area isn’t as big as I imagined it to be, given the TV footage of the crowd.

This morning we left Plaka and travelled through Volos to another on the seaside. A little rain during the journey and while we were setting up camp but all is well now and we are in shorts. Off to Athens tomorrow for a couple of nights near Pireaus and then off to Crete on the 8th.

Cheers
Fiona and John